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Tach not working after 1jz swap

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  • Tach not working after 1jz swap

    Hi all,

    Right, swap is done and its running. I've only driven it about 15 km home from my mates house but I fucking love it already!

    The problem is the tach is not working, it was working with the 1G but now nothing. I borrowed an igniter from Looonie and that didn't work, I bought a new one and it arrived yesterday and that didn't work (by didn't work I mean it runs the engine but no tach).

    I double checked the wiring again.
    I have continuity from this fucker.....


    To pin 1 on connector A


    Can anyone confirm I have the correct wire at the dash? Or any other suggestions..........

    Cheers
    Greenie
    1989 GZ20 Soarer. 1JZ and R154.

  • #2
    My monies on wrong wire... but its been too long since I've even seen my wiring All I know its its solid black wire to solid black wire
    Moo

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    • #3
      Yeah Looonie, wrong wire is my bet. But which is the right one? The wire I have is black with 2 silver dots and the other black wires going to the dash have coloured trace's, so its not those.

      If I had better wiring diagrams for the dash showing plug and pin locations I could figure it out. But the one I have only shows a black wire..........Fucker! More internet searching........
      1989 GZ20 Soarer. 1JZ and R154.

      Comment


      • #4
        Actually I also remember doing some wire bridging and stuff near the igniter area...

        If we get consistently good weather this weekend, I should be able to clear the property and get started on sorting the garage out, which means being able to back the car out... So you're welcome to come round sometime and have a look if you want?
        Moo

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        • #5
          That would be sweet looonie.
          Doing more research, maybe I need a tach booster.
          http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tec...o-booster.html

          Quoted from post 14:
          "7MGTE and 1JZ/2JZ are the same.

          7MGE is different.

          so using a 7MGE dash with a GTE/JZ is not gonna work without a converter.

          Elmo."

          Do you think this holds true for 1G-GEU and 1G-GT?
          1989 GZ20 Soarer. 1JZ and R154.

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          • #6
            I never had to in mine, which was a 1G-GTE... just straight up connected black wire to black wire.

            The rest of your dash works yeah? Speedo, temp gauge etc?
            Moo

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            • #7
              i ran a wire from the igniter plug to the wire from the dash. My plugs were already chopped off but just connected to black wire from dash. double check the plug on the igniter i first had it back to front. You shouldnt need a booster i didnt.

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              • #8
                Yep, rest of the dash is sweet.

                Having done more research with a broader search shows that when changing from 1g-geu to 1g-gte the tach is known to be a problem. Apparentley there is a signal filter in the dash of a 1g-geu powered vehicle that needs to be removed when installing a 1g-gte so the tach will work.

                Research also shows that the tach signal of 1J, 2J, 1g-gte is a 5volt square wave, where as the non-turbo engines are not(havn't found what they are yet).

                I am buy no means the expert, and would love to be corrected with the right information.

                Research continues................
                1989 GZ20 Soarer. 1JZ and R154.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by turbo_guy View Post
                  i ran a wire from the igniter plug to the wire from the dash. My plugs were already chopped off but just connected to black wire from dash. double check the plug on the igniter i first had it back to front. You shouldnt need a booster i didnt.
                  Was your car originally a turbo model? Looking to confirm my theory on turbo/non-turbo tach signals.
                  1989 GZ20 Soarer. 1JZ and R154.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    yeah it was turbo, so yours isnt? Thats prob ya problem then same with 7m turbo and non turb. Try find a turbo dash to try?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Your research is sounded very good young padawan.

                      I would say hunt down said signal filter in dash an remove/bypass to test theory?
                      Moo

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Yeah mine was non-turbo 1G, thanks for that. It's looking likely that this migth be the issue.
                        1989 GZ20 Soarer. 1JZ and R154.

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                        • #13
                          i think i read with the 7m it was just a matter of removing a resistor or something might be similar for 1g. What size piping are ya dumps

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Looonie View Post
                            Your research is sounded very good young padawan.

                            I would say hunt down said signal filter in dash an remove/bypass to test theory?
                            Thank you master jedi, I will hunt done the filter.
                            Hopefully that is it, it looks like I bought a new igniter for nothing.
                            Still.......can't hurt to have a spare.
                            1989 GZ20 Soarer. 1JZ and R154.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by turbo_guy View Post
                              i think i read with the 7m it was just a matter of removing a resistor or something might be similar for 1g. What size piping are ya dumps
                              2.5" into 3", I also ported the internal waste gates to control over boosting and it works a treat. Holds 10 pounds perfectly
                              1989 GZ20 Soarer. 1JZ and R154.

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